"Right" proportions, 90-60-90 sizes, minimum height restrictions, ideal weight... Have you ever thought about how these definitions that sound familiar to our ears came to be? More precisely, have you ever thought about how the standard body sizes of clothes are determined and why you have to fit into a certain pattern? While these questions were plaguing my mind, I realized that there were actually more questions to ask deep down. Is there such a thing as the "right body"? How are these concepts changing? Does the fashion system allow body freedom or does it put us in certain patterns? So when did the patterns appear?
We don't need to go too far back. It can be said that the fashion industry, especially after the 1980s, has made the body more visible by making women a social project on the way of being aesthetic and beautiful. Because, when the ever-changing trends started to be the ever-changing bodies, the body size system also started to change and develop. In other words, in order to keep up with fashion, not only our style, but also our body adapts to change along these trends. Therefore, the correct body size becomes a question mark for the producer as well as the consumer.
History of measuring patterns: Throughout history, there have been clothes tailored to the body and the individual. Thanks to the tailor-made garments, no one had to fit into a special mold. Standardizing bodies began during the Great Depression, post-World War II. Mass production developed with the developing industrial techniques, and thus, in a not too distant date, the rule that it should fit into certain molds came. The advertisements and catalogs that emerged during this period sparked a consumer revolution. So unusual and fast.
Standards: In the early 1940s, 59 different measurements were taken from 15,000 women during a study of the female body in hopes of establishing a standardized "labeling" system. But the most important discovery made by researchers Ruth O'Brien and William Shelton was psychological; The women did not want to share their measurements. The result is that standard sizes are created . In 1958, a long time later, O'Brien and Shelton's research was endorsed by the US and brands were advised to tailor their clothing accordingly. By 1983, O'Brien and Shelton's standards and, of course, their dreams were shattered. Because plus size women, tall and short people did not fit these criteria and many people were deprived of shopping.
Judgment of the body: And the 2000s; rising voices, changing bodies. With the millennium, it has become difficult to fit into these molds. Brands had to change their point of view when those who were out of the molds, especially large sizes, could not find clothes that fit them. Thus, new trends turned to terms such as plus size , oversize , petit . So bodies started to rule the trends. Today, however, prejudices began to be destroyed gradually. Over the past few years, many brands have joined the new system. Universal Standard has catered to this market alongside Curvy Sense and Good American since its inception in 2015.
It's not enough for now: Because the fashion world "What if it doesn't sell!" He still lives in fear. Although most brands take steps for different sizes, they do not produce enough products, or rather they do not produce products that catch the trends. She says it's difficult for them to produce and stock larger sizes because they require more fabric, more patterns, and more money. Technically, that's perfectly true, says Fiona Dieffenbacher, who heads the fashion design program at Parsons School of Design. “Most designers still don't want to think that their clothes are worn by plus-size women. ” explains the situation with the words.
According to research, by 2027 H&M, Forever 21 Inc., Ralph Lauren, Mango, H&M, Hanesbrands Inc. and more aims to create a system that appeals to everyone. Although it may seem difficult in the short term for every body to be happy for the moment, if the trends continue in this direction in the fast fashion system, consumption may be dispersed for everyone and production in standard sizes may decrease. It can be a good step for correct consumption, not excessive consumption.
roxan
ANGST MAG / APOSTO NO:19
